Just a little update. It’s been a long time since I’ve done any sewing. I am not sure if I was burned out, or frustrated with my ever-changing size, or something else. But this weekend, dear friends of mine won Crown and another was put on Vigil for the Order of Chivalry. This means I get a make a whole ton of viking garb. This excites me huge! Onward and upward to stitching. I will try to keep track of the plans and progress here.
As I said in a previous post, some friends of mine did an thing, that thing allowed me to step out of my 16th C costuming head and jump into 10th C for a bit. The time between Arnsbjorn winning Crown to Coronation was very short. Normally heirs have 8-12 weeks to prepare for their step up, because of changing calendar schedules, Arnsbjorn and Inga only had 4 weeks. “Simple” you might say for a viking step up, its all rectangles and nothing is fitted. You’d be wrong. Inga wanted a simple apron dress, undergown, and a front panel. Most of her “wow” would be in bling and beauties applied to the garments. Arnsbjorn needed a whole new outfit; he spends most of his SCA time working on domestic things or wearing fight kit.
Most of the fabric’s for both outfits came from mine and Inga’s fabric stash. The problem was that the red linen in my stash is not the colour of red they wanted. 1.5 weeks into the process, they ordered some more linen from Fabric-Store. From the sample card Inga has, they thought they wanted the Redwood in IL019 (5.3oz 100% linen). On a whim they also ordered Crimson in the same weight.
Shipping between Canada and the USA can be a challenge. Customs and international borders delay deliveries and we couldn’t afford a delay. Even shipping priority USPS (recommended by the retailer) the Linen didn’t arrive until 10 business days after being ordered. This put us 1 week away from Coronation with the fabric still “on the bolt”.
When the linen’s arrived, the Redwood was much more orange then the same card or image online. Thankfully the Crimson was much closer to their choice and we went with that. The Redwood was a good tone for Sigurd’s coat (created by Inga and Brangwyn).
Arnsbjorn wanted something different. Below is the inspiration image.
|From a Calendar (sorry no proper citation, not my calendar)|
|Arnsbjorn at Coronation, photo courtesy Beothuk on Flickr|
|Tablet trim on yellow band|
|Arnsbjron at Coronation
Photo by Beothuk on Flickr
All good intentions seem to lead down the road to hell. Or at least Valhalla.
Friends of mine went and did a thing, so I will be taking a short hiatus from my 16th Century costuming to work on their very period Norse stuff. They have visions, I get to make them reality!
I hear all the time about how easy rectangular construction is… this is embellished truth. I also hear about how viking’s are all the same …. an outright lie. Or how “its all about the embroidery and jewelry”… whoever said that didn’t have 4 weeks to turn around full outfits! I find rectangular construction just as challenging as fitted garments. Mostly I psyche myself out thinking they are so easy and make stupid little mistakes. We will get to those later.
As mentioned, 4 weeks to turn around the following:
Viking Womans undergown – White Linen
Viking Mans undertunic w/ side collar closure – White Linen
Viking Womans gown embllishments – Yellow Linen
Viking apron dress – Red Linen
Viking coat – Red Linen
|Inga’s undergown pattern, including incorrect body measurement|
I started with patterns, since neither had a good pattern that fit. I took a few existing garments and pulled measurements. **Note** When taking a pattern, make sure you’re measuring often and on flat surfaces. Measure again before cutting. I measured and then cut the body of the womans gown too small and it had to be remade… Why do I find body blocks and fitted patterns so much easier!
|Arnsbjorn’s shirt pattern. Sans underarm gussets.|
I wish I could say there was 3 dimensional measuring and math involved, but there really wasn’t. Just a measuring tape and a flat surface, pencil and paper. Once I had the measurements rough sketched, I plotted them on graph paper and started cutting.
All seams were assembled by machine, and finished in either a pressed flat open seam or run and fell seam, whipstitched down. I am particularly proud of how my gores and gussets went in.
|Inset gore at front of Inga’s gown.|
Keep an eye on this space for a tutorial on how to inset gores without the help of a convenient seam.