Just a little update. It’s been a long time since I’ve done any sewing. I am not sure if I was burned out, or frustrated with my ever-changing size, or something else. But this weekend, dear friends of mine won Crown and another was put on Vigil for the Order of Chivalry. This means I get a make a whole ton of viking garb. This excites me huge! Onward and upward to stitching. I will try to keep track of the plans and progress here.
As I said in a previous post, some friends of mine did an thing, that thing allowed me to step out of my 16th C costuming head and jump into 10th C for a bit. The time between Arnsbjorn winning Crown to Coronation was very short. Normally heirs have 8-12 weeks to prepare for their step up, because of changing calendar schedules, Arnsbjorn and Inga only had 4 weeks. “Simple” you might say for a viking step up, its all rectangles and nothing is fitted. You’d be wrong. Inga wanted a simple apron dress, undergown, and a front panel. Most of her “wow” would be in bling and beauties applied to the garments. Arnsbjorn needed a whole new outfit; he spends most of his SCA time working on domestic things or wearing fight kit.
Most of the fabric’s for both outfits came from mine and Inga’s fabric stash. The problem was that the red linen in my stash is not the colour of red they wanted. 1.5 weeks into the process, they ordered some more linen from Fabric-Store. From the sample card Inga has, they thought they wanted the Redwood in IL019 (5.3oz 100% linen). On a whim they also ordered Crimson in the same weight.
Shipping between Canada and the USA can be a challenge. Customs and international borders delay deliveries and we couldn’t afford a delay. Even shipping priority USPS (recommended by the retailer) the Linen didn’t arrive until 10 business days after being ordered. This put us 1 week away from Coronation with the fabric still “on the bolt”.
When the linen’s arrived, the Redwood was much more orange then the same card or image online. Thankfully the Crimson was much closer to their choice and we went with that. The Redwood was a good tone for Sigurd’s coat (created by Inga and Brangwyn).
Arnsbjorn wanted something different. Below is the inspiration image.
|From a Calendar (sorry no proper citation, not my calendar)|
|Arnsbjorn at Coronation, photo courtesy Beothuk on Flickr|
|Tablet trim on yellow band|
|Arnsbjron at Coronation
Photo by Beothuk on Flickr
Despite only being at the start of my apron research, I really need a new apron. I’ve been working on one for months now. It’s been set aside many times in favour of commissions and other priorities. But I find myself with idle hands today. Here is a small tease of what is to come.
|Detailing of Smocking on Apron|
All good intentions seem to lead down the road to hell. Or at least Valhalla.
Friends of mine went and did a thing, so I will be taking a short hiatus from my 16th Century costuming to work on their very period Norse stuff. They have visions, I get to make them reality!
I hear all the time about how easy rectangular construction is… this is embellished truth. I also hear about how viking’s are all the same …. an outright lie. Or how “its all about the embroidery and jewelry”… whoever said that didn’t have 4 weeks to turn around full outfits! I find rectangular construction just as challenging as fitted garments. Mostly I psyche myself out thinking they are so easy and make stupid little mistakes. We will get to those later.
As mentioned, 4 weeks to turn around the following:
Viking Womans undergown – White Linen
Viking Mans undertunic w/ side collar closure – White Linen
Viking Womans gown embllishments – Yellow Linen
Viking apron dress – Red Linen
Viking coat – Red Linen
|Inga’s undergown pattern, including incorrect body measurement|
I started with patterns, since neither had a good pattern that fit. I took a few existing garments and pulled measurements. **Note** When taking a pattern, make sure you’re measuring often and on flat surfaces. Measure again before cutting. I measured and then cut the body of the womans gown too small and it had to be remade… Why do I find body blocks and fitted patterns so much easier!
|Arnsbjorn’s shirt pattern. Sans underarm gussets.|
I wish I could say there was 3 dimensional measuring and math involved, but there really wasn’t. Just a measuring tape and a flat surface, pencil and paper. Once I had the measurements rough sketched, I plotted them on graph paper and started cutting.
All seams were assembled by machine, and finished in either a pressed flat open seam or run and fell seam, whipstitched down. I am particularly proud of how my gores and gussets went in.
|Inset gore at front of Inga’s gown.|
Keep an eye on this space for a tutorial on how to inset gores without the help of a convenient seam.
|Melancholia I – Albercht Durer – 1514|
|Melancholia I (Apron Detail) – Albrecht Durer – 1514|
Aprons, ubiquitous to all stations throughout history, serve both functional and frivolous purposes. Made of wool or linen, ranging in colours from black to white to green to blue, they were used to protect clothing and as a status symbol.
This is the beginning of my research into aprons in the German Cities in the 16th century. I’ll be looking at the range of colours displayed in art and trying to extrapolate a difference in social class in relation to apron colour. I will also try to identify different styles of aprons; pleated, smocked, flat, partial coverage or complete.
I like aprons, I find them useful every day. I cook, clean, work, and relax in garb over the course of an event. Having useful functional clothing and accessories assists in maintaining my kit as well as lending authenticity to it. The devil is in the details. I’ve had a simple pleated apron made of midweight linen for 5 years and it’s finally time to cut it up into wash cloths. I need some basic functional aprons, but I’m also working on some fancier ones similar to the apron depicted in Durer’s “Melancholia I” shown above.
Welcome to my Rabbit Hole!
I haven’t posted a blog in a VERY VERY long time. I shall begin to remedy this promptly.
Since my past post in 2009 I’ve grown enormously in my research and knowledge of both clothing and life in the 16th century. I’ll try to get a few diaries and patterns up as well as complete photos and progress shots.
But, let me start with the start. This is me in 2009 in the first thing I ever made (beyond that one bag in sewing classes when I was 12). It was at Montengarde 12th Night (photo courtesy Falashad on Flickr) and inspired by Hans Holbien’s painting.
|Me. 2009. First Garb!|
|Portrait of Dorthea Meyer – Hans Holbein the Younger (1525)|
Iain Gutherie patterned the bodice for me, and I did it NO justice in the end. Lemme tell you, this was an optimistic first try. I have yet to re-attempt the gown. Its a great attempt though, I am pretty proud of this all things considered!
How I did it
A bunch of triangles and little tiny cartridge pleats around the neck…. maybe?
?? Your guess is as good as mine. It doesn’t look too bad though eh!
Lining – 100% cotton
Interlining – Jean denim
Red Fashion – Questionably 100% cotton drill
Black guards – Questionable content plain weave “wool”
How I did it
This was a VERY long time ago. So I don’t have many details on my process other then a LOT of tea, frustration, and seam ripping.
I started with zigzagging all the edges of all the pieces… so I had some good direction!
The lining and interlining on the bodice is sewing good side to good side then flipped right side in and pressed. Since I used inappropriate materials, and didn’t know about clipping allowance, I ended up running a stitch along the neck and front to minimize bubbling along that edge.
The bodice was WAY too big around the waist and fit funny so I ended up putting a little pleat in the back where it attaches to the skirt to make it look better.
The sleeves are probably unlined and sewn in right side to right side then flipped over. I didn’t know much about seam finishing, so they are all bulky and raw inside.
The skirt is a vague approximation of a knife pleat. The neck guard runs down the length of the front of the skirt and then into the hem guards. I liked the look at the time, but totally undocumented.
It is closed with hooks and eyes.
Ok, this is pretty redundant since it’s my first ever sewing project. But I really DID learn a lot from both those helping me, and my own mistakes. I guess it wasn’t too bad, since I haven’t stopped making stuff yet!
So here is my somewhat completed Cranach Gown. It was pinned…. a lot. The Brustfleck is held on with Saftey Pins, and looking at the picture, I need to make the brustfleck smaller still. All in all, it worked. I know what changes I need to make for the next one to work better (except the attachement of the Brustfleck… grr)
Its a wee little long, and I really really need an underskirt.
Excuse the purse and sunglasses! This is the only full length picture I can find of the dress.
Photo from Her Ladyship Althea’s flickr: http://flickr.com/photos/f_jean/